Installing a glass pool fence yourself might sound intimidating, but with the right kit and a clear plan, it's a project most homeowners can complete in a weekend. In this guide, we'll walk you through the entire process — from preparation to the final inspection.
What You'll Need
Included in Your Kit
- Tempered laminated glass panels (13.5mm)
- Stainless steel spigots (floor-mounted or core-drilled)
- Mounting anchors and fasteners
- Silicone sealant
- Installation guide with QR link to video tutorial
Tools You'll Need
- Hammer drill with masonry bit (for concrete) or standard drill (for wood)
- Level (4 ft recommended)
- Measuring tape
- Pencil or chalk for marking
- Silicone caulking gun
- Socket wrench or adjustable wrench
- Safety glasses and work gloves
- Vacuum or blower (to clean drill holes)
Step 1: Plan Your Layout
Before you drill a single hole, plan where each panel and spigot will go.
- Measure the total perimeter of the area you're fencing. This confirms you have the right kit size.
- Mark spigot positions. Spigots should be placed at each end of every panel and at any corners. Standard spacing is approximately 4 feet apart (matching your panel width).
- Check for level. Walk the perimeter and note any slope or grade changes. Small variations (up to 1 inch) can be absorbed by the spigot adjustment range. Larger slopes may require stepped panels — contact us for advice.
- Verify clearances. Pool codes typically require the fence to be at least 20 inches from the pool edge. Check your local code for specific setback requirements.
Step 2: Install the Spigots
This is the most important step. Level spigots = a level fence.
For Concrete Surfaces:
- Position the spigot base plate where marked. Use the base plate as a drilling template.
- Drill holes using a masonry bit. Drill to the depth specified in your installation guide (typically 3–4 inches).
- Clean the holes thoroughly with a vacuum or compressed air. Dust in the hole weakens the anchor.
- Insert the concrete anchors provided in your kit.
- Place the spigot over the anchors and hand-tighten the bolts.
- Use a level to check that the spigot is perfectly plumb (vertical). Adjust as needed.
- Tighten the bolts fully once level is confirmed.
For Wood Decking:
- Position the base plate and pre-drill pilot holes through the deck boards.
- If possible, align the base plate so at least two bolts hit a joist underneath for maximum strength.
- Secure with the lag bolts provided. Use a socket wrench for final tightening.
- Check for level and adjust as needed.
Pro tip: Install all spigots first before inserting any glass. This lets you double-check alignment and make adjustments while access is easy.
Step 3: Insert the Glass Panels
- Clean the spigot channels. Remove any debris or dust from the slot where the glass will sit.
- Apply silicone. Run a thin bead of silicone sealant along the bottom of the spigot channel. This cushions the glass and prevents rattling.
- Lift the panel into position. Glass panels are heavy (typically 50–70 lbs each). Have a helper assist you. Wear gloves for grip.
- Slide the panel into the spigots. Lower it carefully into the channels.
- Tighten the spigot set screws. These compress rubber gaskets inside the spigot that grip the glass securely. Tighten evenly on both sides.
- Check for level. The top edge of the glass should be level. Minor adjustments can be made by loosening the set screws and repositioning.
- Seal the base. Apply a clean bead of silicone around the base where the glass meets the spigot. This weatherproofs the connection.
Step 4: Install the Gate (If Applicable)
If your kit includes a self-closing gate:
- Install the gate post spigots following the same process as above, but with the spacing specified for your gate width.
- Attach the gate hinges to one post. Self-closing hinges have a spring mechanism — follow the included instructions for tension adjustment.
- Hang the gate panel on the hinges.
- Install the magnetic latch on the opposite post.
- Test that the gate self-closes and latches from any position. Pool codes require gates to self-close and self-latch.
- Verify that the latch is at least 54 inches from the ground (standard code requirement) so small children cannot reach it.
Step 5: Final Checks
- Walk the entire fence line. Check that all panels are level, all spigots are tight, and all silicone seals are clean.
- Test each panel. Apply moderate pressure to each panel to ensure it's firmly seated in the spigots.
- Test the gate (if installed). It should self-close and self-latch reliably from any open position.
- Clean the glass. Remove fingerprints, silicone smudges, and construction dust with glass cleaner and a microfiber cloth.
- Take photos. Document your completed installation for your records and in case you need to schedule a building inspection.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Rushing the spigot installation. If your spigots aren't level, your panels won't be either. Take your time on Step 2.
- Not cleaning drill holes. Dust in the hole prevents anchors from gripping properly.
- Over-tightening set screws. Tighten until snug — over-tightening can crack the rubber gaskets or stress the glass.
- Skipping the silicone. Silicone in the spigot channel prevents glass-to-metal contact, which eliminates rattling and protects the glass edge.
- Installing alone. Glass panels are heavy and unwieldy. Always have a second person help you lift and position panels.
How Long Will This Take?
Here's what to expect based on kit size:
- Starter Kit (8 ft): 2–4 hours
- Standard Kit (16 ft): 4–6 hours
- Pro Kit (32 ft): 1–1.5 days
- Full Perimeter Kit (48 ft): 1.5–2 days
Allow extra time for concrete surfaces (drilling takes longer) and for your first few panels (you'll get faster as you go).
Need Help?
Our support team has installed hundreds of glass fences. If you hit a snag at any point during installation, give us a call. We're available Monday–Friday, 9 AM – 5 PM EST and we're happy to walk you through it.